Grapow and other edible delights

The other day I was just finishing my lunch when a plate of chicken and basil atop a bed of rice was carried by. “What’s that?” I asked excitedly in Thai, because it looked so delicious. I wrote down the name so I could order it as soon as I had the chance.
Let me introduce you to Pad Grapow Gai: minced chicken stir fried with holy basil. It is a nice, non-spicy dish with tender little pieces of chicken and the fresh flavor of basil.

We went into the actual town of Bang Saphan Yai, about a 6 kilometer motor-bike ride from where we are staying, for some lunch. I’m really glad I learned how to order food in Thai, because the place we went had no menus.

I saw chicken and holy basil in the open kitchen, so I ordered Grapow Gai, and it was delicious! I spiced it up with my new favorite condiment: sliced fresh chiles in fish sauce. This concoction is magical, adding a salty heat to anything you sprinkle it on. With the basil, chicken, and rice, I was almost completely satisfied with my meal.
I say almost, because it has gotten to the point where no meal is complete without Som Tham.  Look at the dried shrimp in this one!
(hint: they’re the peachy-pink colored things, and the one towards the lower right corner has black eyes!)

When I cooked with dried shrimp at home, I couldn’t stand them. They were tough and just didn’t taste like anything I wanted in my food. These however, taste fresh plus they are nice and tender. I’m definitely a fan of dried shrimp now!

Paradise

When Mike and I decided we were not going to stay in Chaing Mai (which was a very difficult decision), we decided that before settling anywhere else, we needed some quality beach time.

On our previous visit to Thailand we spent some time at a big fancy resort on the west side of Pukhet Island, as well as on the backpacker-haven island of Ko Phi Phi. Both places were a little over-built and touristy for our tastes, so this time we decided to get a little farther off the beaten path.

Mike pulled out a map of Thailand and pointed to a city at random. It turned out to be Bang Saphan Yai, a small town about 7 hours south of Bangkok on the train. While the town itself is nothing special, the beach, a long curving stretch of soft sand and turqoise water, is perfect.  Not a high rise in sight, just clusters of bungalows and the occasional small, family-owned restaurant.  Fisherman bring their latest catch to the shore every day, so all the seafood is incredibly fresh!

We found a bungalow for $40 a week, and although it has no A/C and no hot water, the setting more than makes up for those slight shortcomings.
A little ways up the beach is an adorable little cafe where we eat breakfast every morningThis sweet little puppy lives at one of the houses near our bungalow, and she comes to visit us throughout the day.
The cafe makes typical American breakfast food – banana muffins, omelets, scrambled eggs, and french toast, served on a patio overlooking the water.  This banana muffin with raisins and sliced almonds was divine!